Portuguese Cut Diamond: Meaning, History, Cost & Engagement Rings
You are definitely familiar with diamond cuts like round, oval, and pear, each with 57-58 facets. Maybe you have even worn an engagement ring with one of them. The whole world is very fond of them; they are the visible gems of the diamond world.
But what if I told you that you could have that same round diamond, or an oval or a pear, with 161 or more facets? Not 58. One hundred and sixty-one. Can you imagine how different that sparkle would be?
This guide is all about that diamond with 161 or more facets. That is called a Portuguese cut diamond. I will tell you so many interesting things about this hidden gem of the diamond world, one that very few people know about.
That is the Portuguese cut diamond. By the end of this guide, you will know everything you need to decide whether a Portuguese cut diamond belongs on your finger.
What is a Portuguese Cut Diamond?
Before we go further, one thing is important to understand. When you hear oval cut or pear cut, you picture a shape. The Portuguese cut is not a shape; it is a faceting style. It describes a more complex way of cutting a diamond. So you can have the Portuguese faceting style on any diamond whose core shape is rounded, like round, oval, pear, or even an antique-inspired shape.
What Makes Portuguese Cut Diamonds Different

Diamond is all about light play. In 1919, a young mathematician named Marcel Tolkowsky applied every rule of mathematics and every law of physics to answer one question: what arrangement of facets gives a round diamond the highest possible sparkle?
His answer was 58 facets, with 33 on the crown and 25 on the pavilion, every angle calculated to return the maximum light to your eye. That became the round brilliant cut, and the whole world has loved it ever since.
The Portuguese faceting style takes it even further. With 161 or more facets, light inside the diamond does not bounce off a handful of broad surfaces and come back as one wide flash. It travels through many smaller surfaces and returns as dozens of smaller, layered bursts.
As a result, when you move your hand, a Portuguese-cut diamond often produces more small flashes of light, or scintillation, than a traditional round brilliant of similar size. But how did we get from 58 facets to 161? What happened in between, and how did it even become possible to almost triple the facets on a diamond? Let's look into the history to understand that.
History of Portuguese Cut Diamonds
Well, the story began in the early 18th century, when large diamond deposits were found in the region of Minas Gerais in Brazil, which was a Portuguese colony at the time. Before this happened, India was the primary source of diamonds.
This discovery enabled Europe to have a steady supply of diamonds for the first time in history. Huge amounts of rough diamonds started flowing into Lisbon, and Portugal became a vital center of the diamond trade.
And naturally, if you have an abundance of resources, you begin to experiment with new ideas. Over time, cutters working with the influx of Brazilian diamonds began experimenting with more complex faceting styles to develop diamonds with more sparkle and beauty.
At the time, there were no electric lights, no jewelry-store spotlights, and no camera flashes. Royal palaces, grand halls, and wealthy homes were illuminated by candles, oil lamps, and fireplaces. The light was soft, warm, and often quite dim. Because of this, diamonds had to work harder to reflect light and catch people's attention.
So cutters started adding more and more facets to diamonds. This eventually became known as the Portuguese cut.
The exact origin of the cut is still debated. Historians cannot point to a single inventor or a specific moment when it first appeared. What we do know is that the style became strongly associated with Portugal, which is why it eventually became known as the Portuguese cut.
There is one more important thing to know. There is also a famous stone called the Portuguese Diamond. This diamond is a historic 127-carat gemstone, so don't confuse the Portuguese cut with the Portuguese Diamond. They are completely different things.
Now you might be thinking, if Portuguese-cut diamonds were around before the modern round brilliant cut, then why did the industry move in a different direction?
Well, that is largely related to finding the right balance between sparkle and practicality.
Creating more than 160 facets requires significantly more time, skill, and precision than cutting a standard brilliant diamond. The deeper design can also result in more weight being concentrated below the stone, making it less efficient from a manufacturing perspective.
For large-scale commercial production, it simply wasn't the practical choice.
Then, in 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky developed the proportions that helped define the modern round brilliant cut. It offered excellent sparkle while also being easier and more practical to produce consistently.
That is why we see fewer Portuguese-cut diamonds nowadays. They are not completely gone, but they are rare.
Okay, so the history is clear. That brings us to the next question: how is a Portuguese-cut diamond actually created?
How a Portuguese-Cut Diamond Is Made
To understand how a Portuguese cut diamond is created, you first need to understand how a diamond is structured. Every diamond has three main parts.
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The table is the flat facet on the very top, the surface you look through when you look at a diamond face-on.
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The girdle is the thin edge that runs around the middle of the stone, connecting the top and bottom halves.
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The pavilion is the entire lower half of the diamond, the cone-shaped section that sits below the girdle and comes to a point at the bottom.
In a traditional round brilliant diamond, the top half, called the crown, has 33 facets in total. One of those is the table itself. The remaining 32 are arranged across a single main row on the sides of the crown. The pavilion carries 25 facets, arranged across 2 rows.
In a Portuguese cut diamond, the structure is significantly more complex. The crown carries approximately 81 facets, one table facet at the top, and the remaining 80 spread across three rows on the sides of the crown.
The pavilion carries approximately 80 facets, arranged across five rows rather than two. And critically, all of these facets are much smaller than those on a round brilliant. More rows, more surfaces, smaller individual facets, that is what creates the layered, kaleidoscopic light effect that makes this cut so distinctive.
Creating those small facets requires a level of craftsmanship that very few cutters in the world possess. A round brilliant can be cut by a skilled operator in a matter of hours. A Portuguese cut, done properly, takes many times longer.
Each of the 161 or more facets requires individual placement and individual polishing. And because the pavilion is deeper than a standard cut, the stone also sits lower in its setting, meaning the cutter has to constantly weigh the trade-off between adding depth for light performance and preserving enough carat weight to make the stone commercially viable.
Round Brilliant Diamond vs. Portuguese-Cut Diamond
|
Feature |
Round Brilliant Diamond |
Portuguese Cut Diamond |
|
Table |
1 facet |
1 facet |
|
Crown Facets |
32 facets across 1 row |
80 facets across 3 rows |
|
Crown Total |
33 facets |
81 facets |
|
Pavilion Rows |
2 rows |
5 rows |
|
Pavilion Facets |
25 facets |
80 facets |
|
Total Facets |
57–58 |
161+ |
|
Facet Size |
Larger, fewer surfaces |
Smaller, many more surfaces |
|
Cutting Time |
Hours |
Many times longer |
|
Skill Required |
Skilled operator |
Master lapidary |
The Portuguese cut is not a diamond shape at all; it's a faceting style. But it is certainly one of the most unusual diamond cuts you can find today.
Now, this guide is focused entirely on Portuguese-cut diamonds. But when choosing the perfect diamond for an engagement ring, it is important to consider all the options that might catch your eye.
So before we answer whether a Portuguese-cut diamond is right for your engagement ring, let's see how it compares with some other popular diamond styles, including the Heart Shape, Elongated Cut, and Old European Cut.
Portuguese Cut vs Rose Cut
|
Feature |
Portuguese Cut |
Rose Cut |
|
Facets |
161+ facets |
Usually 3–24 facets |
|
Sparkle |
Intense, highly scintillating |
Soft and subtle |
|
Bottom Structure |
Deep pavilion |
Flat bottom |
|
Appearance |
Bright and lively |
Delicate and antique |
|
Popularity Today |
Rare |
Niche vintage choice |
|
Best For |
Maximum sparkle |
Antique charm |
Portuguese Cut vs Old European Cut
|
Feature |
Portuguese Cut |
Old European Cut |
|
Facets |
161+ facets |
57–58 facets |
|
Sparkle Style |
Many small flashes |
Larger, broader flashes |
|
Origin |
Associated with 18th-century Portugal |
Late Victorian and Edwardian era |
|
Appearance |
Complex and modern-looking |
Warm vintage character |
|
Availability |
Very rare |
More commonly found in antique jewelry |
|
Best For |
Unique light performance |
Historic appeal |
Portuguese Cut vs Elongated Cuts
|
Feature |
Portuguese Cut |
Elongated Cuts (Oval, Pear, Marquise) |
|
Type |
Faceting style |
Diamond shapes |
|
Main Appeal |
Extraordinary sparkle |
Elegant elongated shape |
|
Facets |
161+ facets |
Usually 57–58 facets |
|
Finger Coverage |
Depends on shape |
Appears larger on the finger |
|
Availability |
Rare |
Widely available |
|
Best For |
Buyers seeking uniqueness |
Buyers seeking a flattering silhouette |
Now that we've seen how Portuguese-cut diamonds compare to other popular diamond styles, let's look at some of the practical considerations that matter when you're actually buying one.
How Much Does a Portuguese-Cut Diamond Cost?
The cost of a Portuguese-cut diamond is not a simple question to answer.
Yes, they are rare and very hard to make. However, their price does not depend solely on their rarity and craftsmanship. But their price does not depend solely on their rarity and craftsmanship.
Most Portuguese-cut diamonds are cut by specialist lapidaries, which means their pricing can vary significantly from one stone to another. Still, the final price depends heavily on the same factors that determine the value of any diamond: the 4Cs (carat, cut, color, and clarity), as well as whether the diamond is natural or lab-grown.
Here, the biggest challenge is often not the price but the availability. Because Portuguese-cut diamonds are so uncommon, finding one can be far more difficult than finding a comparable round, oval, or cushion diamond.
So my final verdict is simple: if you want to know the exact price of a Portuguese-cut diamond, your best option is to contact a reputable jeweler or reliable diamond dealer and ask for pricing on specific stones.
Can Portuguese Cut Diamonds Be Made In a Lab
Yes, Portuguese-cut diamonds can be lab-grown.
In fact, Many of the Portuguese-cut diamonds marketed today appear to be lab-grown, and there is a practical reason behind that. Since this type of diamond is already expensive to produce, jewelers often use lab-grown diamonds to keep prices more affordable.
After all, lab-grown diamonds cost less than natural diamonds while offering the same sparkle and visual appearance.
Additionally, specialty cuts like the Portuguese cut demand more from the rough diamond. Cutters need a larger and cleaner section of rough material, along with significantly more cutting work, to create all those extra facets. As a result, relatively few natural diamonds are cut in the Portuguese style.
This means that even if you find a natural Portuguese-cut diamond, your options in terms of carat weight, clarity, color, and shape may be quite limited.
Naturally, lab-grown diamonds become an attractive option for both manufacturers and buyers. Manufacturers can produce them in greater quantities, while buyers get access to larger stones, more shapes, and a wider range of clarity grades without stretching their budget.
Best Settings for a Portuguese-Cut Diamond
So far, we've covered almost everything there is to know about Portuguese-cut diamonds, their history, how they are made, how much they cost, and even whether a lab-grown version makes sense. That brings us one step closer to answering the big question: Is a Portuguese-cut diamond the right choice for your engagement ring?
But before we get there, there is one important detail worth discussing. No matter how beautiful a diamond is, it still needs the right setting to show off its sparkle and keep it secure. After all, the setting is what holds the diamond in place and plays a big role in the overall look of the ring.
The good news is that Portuguese-cut diamonds work well with most popular ring settings. However, solitaire and halo settings do a better job of showcasing the cut's unique sparkle and beauty than others.
Is a Portuguese-Cut Diamond Right for Your Engagement Ring?

After everything we've discussed, you might be wondering whether a Portuguese-cut diamond is actually the right choice for an engagement ring.
The answer is simple: it depends on what you're looking for.
If you want a traditional diamond that everyone else chooses, is available easily, and want a less expensive engagement ring, then a round brilliant, oval, or cushion cut will probably make more sense.
But if you want something different, something that makes people stop and ask, "What cut is that?", but if you want something rare, unusual, and capable of producing a sparkle pattern most people have never seen before, then a Portuguese cut diamond ring is definitely worth considering.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Does a Portuguese-cut diamond look bigger?
Not necessarily. Portuguese-cut diamonds typically have a deeper pavilion to accommodate their many facets. Because more of the diamond's weight is concentrated below the surface, they may actually face up slightly smaller than some other cuts of the same carat weight.
Is a Portuguese-cut diamond more expensive?
It can be. Portuguese-cut diamonds require significantly more cutting and polishing work than standard brilliant cuts. However, the final price still depends on factors such as carat weight, color, clarity, certification, and whether the diamond is natural or lab-grown.
Why is it called a Portuguese-cut diamond?
The exact origin of the cut is debated, but it became strongly associated with Portugal during the 18th century when Brazilian diamonds were flowing into the country. Over time, the faceting style became known as the Portuguese cut because of that connection.
How do you determine the quality of a Portuguese-cut diamond?
Just like any other diamond, quality is largely determined by the 4Cs: carat, cut, color, and clarity. For Portuguese-cut diamonds, you should also pay close attention to facet symmetry, polish quality, and how evenly the stone reflects light.
